With its row of satin-covered buttons centre front, conspicuously placed patch pockets and statement cuffs, the bodice of this silk ensemble shows the influence of 18th-century men’s tailoring and naval uniform.

The ‘cuirasse’ bodice was a popular late-1870s/early-1880s cut, designed to fit tightly over the torso and hips, creating a long, smooth silhouette.

The skirt which features a triangular ‘parasol’ pocket, concealed pocket in the proper left seam and knife pleat trimming, has a long train. It illustrates the typical late-1870s silhouette with all fullness at the back. The skirt would have been worn over a “natural form” bustle, which was designed to appear more natural than earlier, more exaggerated versions of bustles and crinolines.

The outfit was worn by Clara Maria Silcock (1852-1944), possibly for her wedding to William Hudson Davis (1849-1936) on 15 February 1878. Clara was born in Braintree, Essex in England, in 1852. She migrated to New Zealand as an infant with her parents, Obadiah and Clara, initially living in New Plymouth before settling in Durie Hill, Whanganui in 1875.

The ensemble was donated in 1963 by Miss Davis, most likely Clara’s daughter, Ella (1883-1980).

Bodice and skirt, c. 1878
Maker unknown
Silk, cotton and taffeta, with satin trimming
Donated by Miss Davis, 1963
WRM 1963.198 

Photographed by Kathy Greensides

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